One visitor to Miniatura is June Ashton-Mears who we had a chat with recently about her full size dress making expertise. She specialises in a Victorian experience, giving people a sense of what it meant to wear clothes from that era. We know that many miniaturists are always striving for realism as we asked her how clothes have changed since that period.
“To understand the differences between everyday clothing of the Victorian era and modern-day styles, it is necessary to take into account the differences between the societies of then and now. A very brief examination of a very complex subject causes us to take account of the journey that UK society has taken through an industrial revolution, the movement from country to city, changes in communication with the continent and the wider world, the growth of media, redistribution of voting right, two world wars with subsequent social change, including social relaxation and permissiveness. Victorian society was rooted in a modesty that is alien to modern values, indeed Victorian Britain held values of truth, religion, work ethic and duty that are not the same as today’s values.
From 1837 to 1901, necklines were high, and skirt hems were low. For those who could afford it, only the finest silks, cottons and laces – often (but not always) imported from empire or the continent – were used to make the finest and most elaborate costumes. However, Victorian social society was very different to that which we know today. Such middle class as existed was very small, leaving two groups, ie the rich and the poor to make their way in life. The rich led lives of opulence beyond belief which reflected in their choice of clothing. Men often spent fortunes on their wives’ costumes to show off their wealth and success. Women had little power, not being able to vote, and any personal wealth they had, by law, became their husband’s when they married.
The poor lived in totally inadequate accommodation, and dressed in what they could, and certainly of generally poor quality. We can’t claim that the Victorian’s “invented” underwear (it pops up in histories from 16th century worldwide), but it may be argued that it started to appear as we would recognise it today, with developments like the hooped skirt in the early 1800’s. Today’s apparel is lighter, more refined and more elegant than its Victorian equivalents, having benefitted from two centuries of further development.
21st century clothing is simplicity with sophistication, wrought from the needs and desires of generations of wearers and ever-changing fashions. The processes of design and manufacture have facilitated efficiency and production of mass-produced products. In doing this, there has been an inevitable loss of individuality and unique style as the world reels from market forces and the need to balance profit in a global market smothered with competing suppliers. Today’s supply and demand does not sit well with elegance and uniqueness!”
June Ashton-Mears was born in South Yorkshire five months after the end of WW2 in Europe. As the eldest of six children, she was delegated responsibility for her siblings and that included making and mending most of what they wore. Mercifully they were spared wearing Victorian costume, but this turn of life caused June to develop a wealth of knowledge and skills in dress-making. As the demands and obligations upon her lessened, she developed an interest in history, and in particular the Victorian era – the die was cast.
In south Wales June is quite well known for her road show entitled “My Victorian Ladies” (as featured on an ITV Wales news programme) in which volunteer members of the audience are invited to dress up in Victorian costume, and role-play an unscripted playlet under the guidance of Lady June, who receives “guests”, including Queen Victoria into her home and giving a brief description of their garments and the relevant history. These performances, which last around two hours, are most usually delivered to WI Groups, pensioner clubs, and care homes, but they have been presented to schools (June has a written child safeguarding policy) and other social and community groups.
The theme of each presentation can be set according to the wishes of the user group, and have had a variety of focuses e.g. daily life in Victorian and Edwardian times, the centennial of the Suffragette movement, the WW1 centennial and annual remembrance, and of course, the festive season. The costumes, which are almost entirely made of recycled materials, are designed to fit from (approx.) size 8 to 20, and to be worn over reasonable everyday clothing. You might expect that not everyone is keen to dress up, and you would be right. Almost invariably by the end of the show, most of those who didn’t, wish that they had, as everyone had a ball!
Talking of which, recycled materials or not, June has an amazing collection of ball gowns which are usually shown in separate performances from the everyday apparel, if only because there are so many gowns, there just wouldn’t be time. When June is invited to provide a second, third or fourth performance to the same client (the record is five), she guarantees that she will not show a costume that has appeared before at that venue. Please look at June’s web page on www.myvictorianladies.com which will show you a number of, but not all, of her costumes, and also a blog about the shows that June has delivered. You may also contact June Ashton-Mears via the website; she is more than willing to call you back to discuss a possible performance or any costume questions you may have.
June is currently working out how to produce and market 1:12 scale costume patterns, so watch this space!
Miniatura would like to thank June & David for these words and insight into the Victorian world